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Marin Civic CenterMarin Civic Center

探访 Frank Lloyd Wright 的最后一件作品A visit to Frank Lloyd Wright's last commission

Last July we were driving north from San Francisco toward the redwoods. Before we reached the trees, we took a ten-minute detour off Highway 101 in San Rafael to visit Frank Lloyd Wright’s Marin County Civic Center.

Wright began designing it in 1957, at ninety. He died in the spring of 1959, before ground was broken, and the county spent the sixties finishing it without him.

The gold anodized gates of the civic center lobby, a woman waiting on a bench in the sun

Corridors with sky in them#

The building has almost no interior in the usual sense. The hallways are balconies, the balconies look down into gardens, and above them runs one long window of sky.

An escalator rising toward the barrel-vaulted skylight The skylight cutting a diagonal above ribbed walls

The curved balcony corridor on the fourth floor, salmon walls glowing under the skylight

Looking down the atrium, balconies converging toward the library sign, planters on the floor below

The garden inside#

Down the middle of each atrium runs a planter. In it grows, not to put too fine a point on it, a jungle: schefflera, birds of paradise, philodendron and palms, all leaning toward the light.

Schefflera leaves against the skylight and its gold beads Birds of paradise reaching through an oval opening between floors
Philodendron leaves in front of a red wall and gold window grid Palm fronds crossing under the skylight and the salmon curve of the atrium

The library#

We ended the visit in the library at the top of the building: a round desk, a circular leather bench, red walls, and afternoon light falling through the skylight.

The library's round desk and circular bench under the skylight

The building opened in 1962. For more than sixty years, people have polished the floors, repaired the building, cleaned the skylights and watered the plants. Year after year, the county has made room for that work in the budget. That was what we talked about for the rest of the drive north.

去年七月,我们从旧金山出发,一路向北去看红杉。在见到那些树之前,我们先在 San Rafael 下了101号公路,开十分钟去看 Frank Lloyd Wright 设计的 Marin County Civic Center。

Wright 1957年开始设计这栋楼,那年他九十岁。1959年春天,还没等破土动工,他就去世了。马林县用整个六十年代把它盖了出来。

市政中心大厅的金色大门,一位女士坐在长椅上晒着太阳

走廊里的天空#

这栋建筑几乎没有通常意义上的“室内”。走廊就是阳台,阳台下面是花园,头顶则是一整条天光。

扶梯向着拱形天窗上升 天窗在条纹墙面上方切出一道斜线

四层弧形的走廊,鲑鱼粉的墙在天窗下发光

俯瞰中庭,栏杆一层层收向图书馆的招牌,底层是种植槽里的植物

长在楼里的花园#

每个中庭的正中都有一条种植槽,里面,毫不夸张地说,长着一片丛林:鹅掌柴、天堂鸟、春羽和棕榈,全都追着天光往上长。

鹅掌柴的叶子衬着天窗和它的金色圆珠 天堂鸟穿过楼层之间的椭圆形开口向上生长
春羽的叶子,背后是红墙和金色的窗格 棕榈叶在天窗和鲑鱼粉的弧线下交错

图书馆#

我们最后去了顶层的图书馆:圆形的借书台,围成一圈的皮凳,红色的墙,还有从天窗落下来的午后阳光。

图书馆的圆形借书台和环形皮凳,头顶是天窗

这栋楼1962年启用。六十多年里,一直有人打磨地面,修理这栋楼,清洁天窗,给植物浇水,每一年的预算里都留着这笔钱。往北开的那段路上,我们聊的一直是这件事。

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