南达科他South Dakota
让山退后一点,给花留地方。Let the hills step back and leave room for the flowers.
总统山有点吃了名气太大的亏。出发前,它是这趟南达科他旅行的理由;到了面前,觉得也就这么大,看过就行了。那天最舍不得从照片里删掉的,倒是停车场的一辆保时捷 356 A。去看四位总统,喜欢上一辆车,多少有些对不起正经景点。

好在 Custer 不用站定了仰望。路顺着山坡弯进去,景色可以一路接着看。两圈走下来,大约十英里,途中遇到的鹿,比需要记住的地名还多。
单是一条 trail 就有七八只。它们对人很有耐心,抬头看一眼,等你过去,再低头吃草。游客还惦记着下一段路,它们只惦记着没吃完的这一口。站在那里被鹿看着,倒觉得自己才是风景里临时多出来的东西,过一会儿就要走。
到了 Badlands,又发现这里的山很占照片的便宜。矮矮的土丘,一座挨着一座,镜头里就有了连绵群峰的气势。人在跟前站一站,才把它们看回原来的大小。给这片地方拍照,得小心一点,随手就能替它夸大其词。
山脚下却很热闹。土坡光秃秃的,草和仙人掌却照样长,小黄花更是开得毫不客气。对我们来说,这一大片土山值得专程来一趟。对它们来说,这地方足够过日子,开花也开得很灿烂。

最后这张,就不替山撑场面了。让它退后一点,给花留地方。

Mount Rushmore had a reputation bigger than the thing itself. It was the reason for this trip to South Dakota; once there, I felt I had seen what there was to see. The photo I most wanted to keep from that stop was of a Porsche 356 A in the parking lot. Going to see four presidents and coming away partial to a car feels a little unfair to the official attraction.

Custer, fortunately, gives you somewhere to go beyond standing and looking up. The road bends into the hills, and the scenery keeps you company on foot. Two loops added up to roughly ten miles. There were more deer along the way than place names to remember.
Seven or eight on a single trail. They were patient with people, raising their heads, waiting for you to pass, then returning to the grass. A hiker has the next stretch of trail to think about; a deer has an unfinished mouthful. Under that steady look, I felt like the temporary addition to the scene, the thing that would be leaving shortly.
In Badlands, I found that the hills get a generous deal from the camera. Small earthen formations crowd together and come out looking like a mountain range. Standing beside them restores their proportions. It takes very little effort to exaggerate on their behalf.
There is plenty going on at the foot of these hills. Bare slopes, but grasses and cactus growing between them, and yellow flowers blooming with no apparent reservations. We make a special trip to see these hills. For the things growing here, this is simply a place to get on with life, and they are flowering abundantly.

In this last photograph, the hills can give up some of their grandeur. Let them step back and leave room for the flowers.

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