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拉森国家公园Lassen Volcanic National Park

叫它小黄石不太属实,但是它的湖量大管饱The little-Yellowstone billing doesn't quite hold up, but the lakes are all-you-can-eat

For the long weekend, we decided to go have a look at Lassen Volcanic National Park. And, while we were at it, the Muir house on the way.

Going in I had no real notion of Muir; all I knew was that a forest north of San Francisco carries the name. It took a walk around the house to learn he was the man who popularized the idea of the national park for Americans. Then it dawned on me that I had never once thought about this: I had always taken it as a matter of course that national parks should exist.

The Strentzel office in the Muir house, dark wood and afternoon sun

Manzanita Lake#

We reached the edge of the park that afternoon. One exhausting crater later, we doubled back and drove into the park. Manzanita Lake sits right by the northwest entrance: look up, and Lassen Peak stands across the water under what July has left of the snow.

Lassen Peak and its reflection over Manzanita Lake

The lake, meanwhile, wore the standard long-weekend look: a pile of paddleboards on the water, a pile of lounge chairs on the shore.

Paddleboarders on Manzanita Lake, through pine branches A kayaker on Manzanita Lake below Lassen Peak

Lassen Peak across the full width of Manzanita Lake

Lake Helen#

Toward evening we followed the park road uphill. The sulphur stuff turned out to be far too small-scale to be interesting, so we stopped beside another lake of a frankly excessive blue instead. The sun was about to go down by then and no one was left in the water; as it dropped, the whole surface broke into glitter, and the lake got a lot better-looking for it.

The shore was still busy with people coming and going. I thought: all these years on, this many people choosing a national park for their long weekend, and the lake still this blue. If Muir knew, he would be very pleased.

A young couple on the rocks at the edge of Lake Helen An old man reclining in a camp chair in the pine shade above the lake

Blankets and chairs along the lakeshore in the evening light

这个长周末我们决定去看看Lassen国家公园。顺便去看看路上的Muir故居。

来之前其实对Muir没概念,只知道三藩北边有个森林叫这个名字。在屋子里看了一圈才知道,他是把国家公园这个概念普及给美国人的人物。然后我意识到我从来没想过这个问题,天经地义觉得国家公园就该存在。

Muir老宅里的Strentzel书房,深色木头和下午的阳光

Manzanita湖#

当天下午来到公园附近。爬完累人的火山口,我们返程进入公园。Manzanita湖就在北门旁边,抬头一看,Lassen火山顶着七月还没化完的几块雪站在湖对面。

Manzanita湖上的Lassen火山和倒影

湖则是一副典型的长周末的样子:湖上一堆桨板,湖边一堆躺椅。

松枝间Manzanita湖上的桨板 Lassen火山下Manzanita湖上的皮划艇

Manzanita湖和Lassen火山的全景

Lake Helen#

傍晚沿着公园公路往山上开,硫磺什么的规模实在太小,没什么意思。于是我们在另一个蓝得过分的湖边停了下来。这时候太阳快要下山了,湖里不再有人,太阳一低,整个湖面就亮成了碎片,湖好看了很多。

湖边上还是人来人往。我想这么多年过去了,这么多人选择国家公园过长周末,湖也还是这么蓝。如果Muir知道的话应该非常开心。

Lake Helen岸边石头上的一对年轻人 松荫下折叠椅里的老爷子

傍晚湖岸边的毯子和椅子

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